A few months ago we saw the new Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement, although this was the only version designed for this year’s Only Watch charity auction. Now GP has released the “standard” production version (if you can call it that) of their innovative and highly sophisticated force escapement watch with dual wheel escapement. Girard-Perregaux debuted the prototype for their first Constant Escapement watch in 2008, and the production model debuted a few years later in 2013.
If you haven’t fallen deep down the watch-obsessed rabbit hole yet, a constant force escapement is essentially a mechanism designed to ensure consistent accuracy. This is typically accomplished with a rementoise or chain and fusée mechanism, but Girard-Perregaux’s Continuous Escapement simplifies things by actually integrating a constant force mechanism in the escapement. Essentially, the system consists of a flexible blade spring that stores and releases steady force to the balance wheel and a dual escape wheel system that supplements the tension of the blade spring. It’s almost ingenious in its simplicity, but this is no simple achievement and there’s a reason we haven’t seen imitators. While the new version’s twin-gear escapement is largely the same, there are some minor updates such as the new arm joystick which has a locking mechanism via the central lever.
While the Only Watch version is made entirely of rose gold, the new generation of Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement has a titanium case. I suspect that many people will prefer the aesthetics of the older generation Constant Escapement as the Neo Constant Escapement improves on it in every way. First of all, the case was reduced in size from 48mm to 45mm (30m water resistant), as small as possible while still fitting the escapement. In addition, the central hour and minute hands replace the old sub-dial at the 12 o’clock position, creating a more modern and aesthetically pleasing design. This also gives you a better view of the two barrels in the upper part of the dial. These rhodium-finished dauphine-style hands are skeletonized and luminescent, creating a highly legible dial. The only trade-off would be the .4mm additional case thickness from the original to 14.8mm. Finally, the linear power reserve indicator carries a refreshed design that allows for easier and more accurate reading.
The silicium blade undergoes a heat treatment that creates an oxidation layer that not only improves resistance but also gives it a unique color. The photos above show how a simple change in angle can reveal a blue or purple color depending on the lighting. The fact that it is surrounded by so much black enhances this visual spectacle.
The COSC-certified manual-wind Caliber GP09200 has a whopping 7-day power reserve, made exponentially more impressive by its precision and stable isochronism in hour 1 as well as in hour 168. The set The movement is made up of 266 components (actually down from 271 of the previous iteration) and operates at 3 Hz. Another architectural change is clearly noticeable on the back, where the silver-tone gear train runs straight through the sea of mechanical black that surrounds it. This makes for a very impressive display that stands out from its predecessor.
The Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement is a testament to the brand’s strength in watch innovation, something that is often overlooked. The biggest changes from the first generation revolve around movement design, aesthetics and wearability with the new 45mm case size in lightweight titanium. The new black rubber strap with fabric effect just adds to the modern feel of the whole product. Is that the most practical way to spend $99,600? Of course not but this is a piece of watchmaking that reflects an understanding and appreciation of watchmaking. The sleek, new package only makes it more appealing.